She also used to wear a few different pairs of custom made shoes as a younger climber, crushing at the age of 8. She's trained her ass off, she's restructured her life to this goal. Magnus Midtbø's climbing shoe is the Scarpa Drago for most of his bouldering and lead climbing. What Climbing Shoes Does Ashima Shiraishi Wear, What Climbing Shoes Does Magnus Midtbø Wear. She made history by being the first female to climb a 9a+ route in her ascent of La Rambla (5.15a), and repeated that feat by sending her second 5.15a at Biographie/Realization in Céüse, France. The passionate rock climber tells us in today's post, which equipment she takes for a day on the rock. Previously he wore Five Ten shoes, doing "Dreamcatcher" in the Anasazi VCS and the classic Moccasyms. By clicking the "Sign Up" button, you are subscribing to the La Sportiva N.A. Please enter your email address below to create account. It's good all in one we'd suggest if you are newer to climbing, instead of getting the TC Pros which are more specific to big walls. Available in a range of colours and styles for men, women, and everyone. See more ideas about Rock climbing, Margo, Bouldering. Margo Hayes is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. Ashima wears Shakras on outdoors sport and bouldering, as well as for indoor competitions including the IFSC World Championships in Hachioji. Gifts For Rock Climbers - 100+ Unique Climbing Gift Ideas! She uses this for basically everything in the past few years. This allows for great power through the toe while also fitting different foot shapes well. They are aggressively down-turned and have the Stealth C4 rubber that Five Ten were famous for. Montagne Aventure Photographies Amis Ensemble Fille Escalade Escalade En Montagne Sports Extrêmes Parkour. It is more flexible and has Scarpa's newer closure system that allows it to fit different foot shapes better. The 21-year-old American climber from Boulder, Colorado has sent Papichulo, her third 5.15a.Hayes famously became the first woman to climb 5.15 when she sent La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain, on February 26, 2017. This puts him in a prime position for Sport Climbing at the 2020 2021 Olympics. In the last weeks testing the latest release model he managed to climb three 8C+ boulders!eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'climbernews_com-large-mobile-banner-1','ezslot_13',121,'0','0'])); The Phantoms are designed for the hardest overhanging boulders with a bunch of design features tunes to the task. Spotlight: Margo Hayes and the Power of the Mind. He wore them for his hardest sport, Read our full article on Alex Honnold's climbing shoes, approach shoes, and harness ...when he wears one.Alex Honnold visits La Sportiva FactoryWatch this video on YouTube. In the year 2017 scored the American Margo Hayes the route La Rambla and wrote climbing history (LACRUX reported). En février 2017, après 7 jours de travail, elle réalise La Rambla (9a+) dont la cotation a été confirmée par de nombreuses répétitions ; la presse spécialisée la désigne comme la première femme ayant réalisé une voie de ce niveau. A creative, intelligent, and driven young woman has emerged after years of training on and off the rock, recently making history as the first female climber to redpoint 9a+/5.15a. Miho also sometimes wears the Women's version of the classic La Sportiva Solution. Plus one, here! Further reading. Having just turned 18, Margo Hayes, defies this belief in both her climbing and perspective. This allows for a little more leeway when placing your foot on indistinct holds or when smearing. He uses it as an all rounder for bouldering and hard sports routes. It's an aggressive laced shoe made in a smaller size for children/smaller feet. On March 22, the 21-year-old Margo Hayes sent Papichulo, a 5.15a in Oliana, Spain, becoming the first woman in the world to complete a hat trick of 5.15s. It is not about the shoes (thought experiment: Margo Hayes or Kai Lightner is visiting your home town, and wants to check out the local gym. As a bouldering shoe they are fairly sensitive and malleable but they have a stiffness that is evident when you push on to tiny edges. He's a bit of a climbing shoe nerd - and we appreciate that. Greyclothing is an independent artist creating amazing designs for great products such as t-shirts, stickers, posters, and phone cases. What Climbing Shoes Does Paul Robinson Wear? She grew up with the Rocky Mountains in her backyard, and spends the majority of her time dedicated to her sport. Brooke will be competing in the 2021 Olympics alongside teammates Kyra Condie, Nathaniel Coleman, and Colin Duffy. Margo also displays incredible maturity – climbing Waka Flocka while wearing a helmet, something rarely seen among pro sport climbers. Low Volume Climbing Shoes- Women's version of shoes are often called Low Volume (LV). I find it amazing that Margo made all the moves look "normal". Margo Hayes posted on … Press J to jump to the feed. The main climbing shoe that Ashima Shiraishi wears is the Evolv Shakra. The toe is very down-turned and tight with a lot of power going into the big toe hook, with a strap system that's perfect for dialing in the fit. The Hiangle is a popular shoe that most climbers use for hard bouldering. It also has other benefits like your toe being closer to the front of the shoe and more feel when adding pressure. In 2016, she won both the Bouldering and Lead Climbing events at the World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In Hachioji and Toulouse, Adam Ondra wore the La Sportiva Solutions for most of the Bouldering and Lead rounds. She went on to send Biographie, also 5.15a, on September 24, 2017. Watch excerpts from her historic ascent in this short video. By 13, Margo had given up gymnastics to focus on climbing. Margo Hayes Climbs La Rambla, Becomes First Woman to Send 5.15a; Want help sending your own project? What Climbing Shoes Does Tommy Caldwell Wear? For example, we have seen Akiyo Noguchi and Margo Hayes, formerly in Solutions, climbing in Skwamas during recent competitions. The Iati are stiffly downturned with a pointed toe and tight heel. He most often wears the La Sportiva Solutions and says this is his favorite shoe. Climbing at a high level is when you need the most confidence in your footwork, so we make our shoes to a climber’s demand. Occasionally she wears the Women's Solutions that many others choose. They are a stiff, down-turned, and aggressive shoe for steep and challenging bouldering and sport climbing. So, here are the shoes that today's top boulderers and professional climbers use. High quality Lead Climbing gifts and merchandise. Today's episode is this time a little more informative as we will dig deeper into the alchemy of climbing shoes. Read Margo Hayes insta post below, hopefully we'll get a video of this insanely pumpy climb soon. INFO: Red Bull Definitely read up and try on a few first though.- Sport Climbing + Bouldering - La Sportiva Solution / Women's- Big Walls - La Sportiva TC Pro- All Round - La Sportiva Miura Lace / Women's. It wasn't until she was 10 that she discovered her true passion: climbing. Tommy Caldwell has his own pro shoes - the La Sportiva TC Pros - which he designed for all-day performance specifically for Yosemite style big wall climbs on granite. She is known for being the first woman to climb a route graded 9a+ (5.15a) (La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain). For Lead and Bouldering these are a popular, performance oriented shoe with a good toe rubber wrap around. No two are exactly alike. Chris was also the climbing stuntman for the remake of the Point Break movie, and wore the Evolv Nexxo in the climbing scene. In February 2017, Margo became the first female to climb a confirmed 9a+ with an ascent of La Rambla (extension) in Siurana, Spain. Likewise, traditional climbing calls for the use of temporary gear and anchors (ex. Inc. All Rights Reserved, "Biographie" (5.15a); first female ascent, "La Rambla" (5.15a); first female to climb a consensus 5.15a/9a+, "Zulu" (5.14a) and "Double Rainbow" (5.14a) in one day. These are a brilliant shoe that are very popular among indoor boulderers - especially in competition. At the beginning of 2017, Margo Hayes sent La Rambla (9a+/5.15a), becoming the first woman to successfully climb at the grade. A newer third version is being released by adidas so it's possible to get the older one on sale pretty cheap. When competing in Speed, Akiyo wears the La Sportiva Cobra as do many others. FL Pro Margo Hayes making her historic ascent of La Rambla (5.15a) in Siurana, Spain. I first met Margo when she was a 14-year-old sending 5.13s. The Norwegian youtube star and former high level competitor definitely has a favorite. Buy Camping Equipment, Outdoor Gear, Backpack, Sleeping Bags, … She sometimes wears the standard Anasazi LV in comps and in speed climbing. They are a stiff, down-turned, and aggressive shoe for steep and challenging bouldering and sport climbing. She has busted her ass. Meet Margo Hayes, the 19 year old who is literally reaching new heights in rock climbing. I would not replace your shoes right this moment, if they aren't worn out yet. He is currently sponsored by Tenaya and wears a few different shoes from them. Margo Hayes, native to Boulder, Colorado, thrives on both the thrill of competition and the serenity of climbing in nature. Margo Hayes Year Born: 1998 First climbed: Age 10 Climbing regularly since: Age 10 On ABC since: 2008 Height (as of June 2012): 5’3” Ape Index (as of June 2012): 5’3” Favorite Outdoor Areas: Colorado areas Red River Gorge, Kentucky Rodellar, Spain Hueco Tanks, Texas Favorite Route: The Force 13a Red River Gorge, Kentucky Favorite… In 2013, the North Face declared the teen a rising talent; by 2016 she had climbed 9a and won multiple golds in World Youth Championships. Janja Garnbret's climbing shoe is the Five Ten Hiangle Women's version. The only time it seems he's ever used other shoes was when Nalle attempted the Dawn Wall and used - of course - the TC Pros. your own Pins on Pinterest In doing so the American has made the first female ascent of this mega climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001. Elle est membre du Team ABC Boulder. Growing up in the Rocky Mountains, Margo's hobby was initially gymnastics. She also sometimes wears Five Ten shoes like the Hiangle and the Anasazi LV Pro, both in the Women's or Low Volume (LV) versions. Not many climbers keep the same shoe for speed and most opt for a lighter slip on like the Cobra. Il 26 febbraio 2017 Margo Hayes, di Boulder, Colorado, è diventata la prima donna a farcela su un 9a+ (5.15a) consolidato con la salita di La Rambla a Siurana (Spagna), settore El Pati. Ai Mori tends to wear the La Sportiva Futura shoe. In Lead and Bouldering at Hachioji, Tomoa Narasaki's climbing shoes were Unparallel Regulus climbing shoes. Shop high-quality unique Margo Hayes T-Shirts designed and sold by artists. Read more about Janja Garnbret- Janja Garnbret Profile - Best Comps, Training, Diet, Stats and more. In 2013, the North Face declared the teen a rising talent; by 2016 she had climbed 9a and won multiple golds in World Youth Championships. Margo Hayes is one of the most accomplished indoor and outdoor sport climbing athletes. There are a tonne of articles and an infinite amount of opinions out there - today we'll be focusing solely on what climbing shoes the pros wear. La Sportiva climbing athletes Margo Hayes, Paige Claassen and Emily Harrington take a trip to Spain, to explore the abundant sport climbing and deep water soloing that Mallorca A brand new climbing competition from four locations across the world, with Alex Megos, Margo Hayes and many more!!!. Sasha is sponsored by La Sportiva and Five Ten so wears a mix of their shoes. Ondra used to wear the La Sportiva Miura VS very often, taking down some some of his hardest routes in these - including the world's first 9c "Silence" in a prototype called the Miura XX that had a very limited release. Over two weekends in Rifle last summer, the 17-year-old comp climber from Boulder flashed Cryptic Egyptian (5.13c); redpointed Double Rainbow (5.14a) and Zulu (5.14a) in the same day, then quickly dispatched Waka Flocka (5.14b) on her fifth try. Unparallel TN Pro - … Margo Hayes almost always wears the La Sportiva Solutions Women's climbing shoes. Shop Your Favorite Big Brands During Backcountry's ... Margo Hayes on the ... 2017 continues to be a standout year for rock climbing. More great climbing gear reviews- Best Climbing Shoes- Best Beginner Climbing Shoes- Best Beginner Climbing Harness- Best Beginner Bouldering Pads. The Oasi is more suited to overhangs and the Iati is a little stiffer and supportive on face/vertical climbs. Get more out of your climbing session with this strong, long-lasting tape designed to give your fingers some much-needed love! She was the first woman to climb a route on 9a + rotpunkt. Not only has she podiumed in 11 different national and world youth sport climbing championships, five different bouldering climbing championships, but she has also climbed six 5.14 routes and three V11s. He also pulled the same two shoes trick when he wore a La Sportiva Miura VS on his right foot and a La Sportiva Futura on his left while climbing "Terranova". Here in the America, however, we've known of Margo's climbing achievements and impressive work ethic for years. “We have 20-whatever different pairs of rock climbing shoes, they're all different, and they're all intended to be different. They wear a few different models, including the Shark, Red Line, Remora, and the Drone. Women are the fastest growing demographic in the rock climbing world. The line was first climbed by Chris Sharma and is a 50 metre endurance-based route. Today, she shares with us the gear she packs when heading out for a typical day at the crag. These shoes were designed specifically for Yosemite style, granite, big wall climbing by Tommy Caldwell.eval(ez_write_tag([[580,400],'climbernews_com-medrectangle-3','ezslot_1',126,'0','0'])); He used to wear the La Sportiva Miura a lot - including on his free solo of the Half Dome in Yosemite. She had, however, given up on the weight-saving hair idea. [Also Read The Hardest Sport Climbs in the World] He wore these on the 9b+ "Perfecto Mundo" and the new 9c "Bibliographie". Margo Hayes is a rock climbing athlete for The North Face. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Akiyo Noguchi tends to wear the La Sportiva Skwama Women's for most of her climbing. 25, 2019 - Explore Jessica Cairns 's board `` Margo Hayes her! Gear Guides, climbing shoes met Margo when she climbed Papichulo 9a+ both near and far Escalade en. Have the Stealth C4 rubber that Five Ten so wears a few and!, she shares with us the Gear she packs when heading out a. 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